Hallasan is South Korea's highest peak at 1,947 m, and the Seongpanak trail on the east side is the only route that reaches the summit crater. It is free to hike — the 20,000 KRW covers transport and trail food — but it demands a full day and an early start.
The Reservation System
Summit trails require a free reservation through the Jeju parks website (visitQR system) — pick your date and entry window, get the QR code, show it with your passport at the trailhead. Slots open about a month ahead and weekend dates go fast. There is a cutoff: you must pass the Jindallaebat shelter checkpoint by early afternoon (the time shifts seasonally, roughly 12:00–13:30) or rangers turn you back. Start at 7:00–8:00 and this is never a problem.
The Trail
Seongpanak is 9.6 km each way — the longer but gentler of the two summit routes. The first two-thirds is a steady climb through dense forest on a mix of dirt path and boardwalk, honestly a bit monotonous. The trail earns its reputation above the treeline: the last 2 km break into open dwarf-pine slopes and then the volcanic rock of the summit cone, with the whole island spreading out below.
The summit is Baengnokdam, the crater lake — a shallow ring of water in the caldera, often half-hidden in cloud. When the cloud lifts it is one of the great views in Korea: the crater rim, the island's oreum cones scattered below, both coasts visible on a clear day.
The Descent and the Rules
Down the same way — budget 4–5 hours up, 3–4 down. The descent is harder on the knees than the climb; trekking poles earn their weight. There is no water on the trail — carry 2 liters minimum — and no food for sale, so pack kimbap and snacks. Toilets only at the trailhead and the shelters.
Getting There
Bus 281 from Jeju City runs to the Seongpanak trailhead in about 40 minutes. If you are driving, the parking lot fills by 8:00 on weekends. Finish with the tradition: black pork barbecue and a beer back in Jeju City. You will have earned it.